Dollop Lamp 3D printing guide

Updated June 2, 2026, v1.7

This guide covers everything you need to print and assemble the Dollop Lamp which is designed for spiral vase mode printing -- one continuous wall with no infill in the shade. This guide walks through the necessary hardware, printing instructions, and assembly.

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Quick start

What you'll need:

• 1x pendant light fixture (two types supported — see Parts & Files)

• 1x E26/E27 LED bulb, 4-9 watt, max 6.5cm (2.6") diameter

• Printed parts:

  • Shade

  • Base

  • Optional TPU feet

Minimum bed size: 180 × 180 x 150mm.

Printing stats (Prusa Core One, 0.6mm nozzle)

• Shade: 4.7hrs, 149g

• Base: 3.5hrs, 150g

Parts & files

Hardware

Use a low-wattage LED (4–9W). Higher wattages generate more heat which can deform or melt a 3d printed lamp.

Avoid incandescent bulbs since the heat is too 3d printed parts.

3D printing files

Files are available in 3MF (recommended) and STL formats.

Base

Shade

Recommended materials

PLA is my preferred choice of filament for the base since it prints cleanly at standard settings and available in a wide range of colors. White or natural filament for the shade creates a warm, diffused glow, especially when paired with warm light. Natural filament is more transparent than white of off-white filaments.

TPU is ideal for the optional feet. It's flexible and soft, adding a layer of protection for your surfaces and lamp.

Avoid ABS and ASA unless you have an enclosure and experience with those materials. The tolerances in the shade registration tabs are tight enough that warping causes problems.

Printing instructions

• Recommended slicers: PrusaSlicer, OrcaSlicer, or Bambu Studio. Cura users see the Slicing in Cura (v5.0+) before slicing the shade.

• Nozzle: 0.6mm recommended for strength. 0.4mm works.

• The base 3MF files include a negative volume for the feet. Remove the feet from the parts list if you don't want them. STL versions are available with and without the feet negative volume.

I don't recommend scaling any parts. The tolerances for the shade-to-base connection are tight and scaling will cause fit problems.

Base — Variant 1: Threaded fixture

For threaded pendant fixtures with a 40mm outer diameter. Start with your preferred settings with the following changes.

Slicer settings

1. Perimeters: 3

2. Infill density: 10%

3. Infill pattern: Gyroid

Base — Variant 2: Smooth-walled fixture

For smooth-walled pendant fixtures with a 37mm outer diameter. This variant requires a separate threaded collar to lock the fixture in place. I prefer to print it separately using the same slicer settings.

Slicer settings

1. Perimeters: 3

2. Infill density: 10%

3. Infill pattern: Gyroid

TPU feet (optional)

Use your preferred settings for flexible filament. The feet help prevent the lamp from sliding on smooth surfaces.

Shade

The shade is designed for spiral vase mode -- one continuous wall with no infill. Your slicer may call this "Spiral vase," "Spiralize outer contour," or "Vase mode."

Slicer settings

1. Spiral vase: enabled

2. Bottom layers: 4 (see note for 0.32mm layer height)

3. Top layers: 0

4. Infill: 0%

5. Perimeters: 1

6. Supports: not required

Slicing note: Before printing, confirm your gcode preview matches the images below. If it doesn't, see Troubleshooting. The combined solid bottom layers height should be approximately 0.8mm. For 0.32mm layer height, change the bottom layers to 3.

Assembly

1. Attach the fixture to the base

Threaded fixture (Variant 1):

1. Insert the threaded fixture from the base's bottom.

2. Tighten the fixture's threaded ring until secure. The base is captured between the ring and flange, locking the fixture in place. The fixture must have a flange or print an adapter part.

Smooth-walled fixture (Variant 2):

1. Insert the smooth-walled fixture from the base's bottom.

2. The fixture should extend 2–5mm (⅛–¼") above the base before tightening the collar.

3. Thread the collar until the fixture stays secure when screwing in a bulb.

2. Secure the fixture cable

1. Insert the fixture cable into the slot at the rear of the lamp.

2. Insert the cable plug from inside the base. The plug's thin plane faces up when correctly installed.

3. Attach the shade to the base

1. Locate the 4 registration tabs on the shade and Insert the shade tabs into the channel and rotate clockwise until the shade snap into place. Depending on your filament calibration, this may be a tight fit.

Use & care

Changing the bulb

1. Rotate the shade counter-clockwise and pull the shade from the base to expose the bulb.

2. Swap the bulb.

3. Reattach by inserting the registration tabs and rotating clockwise.

Care & maintenance

• Avoid exposure to excessive heat

• Dust with a soft, dry cloth.

• If the bulb flickers or dims, inspect the fixture and bulb promptly.

PLA printed at 3 perimeters and 10% gyroid infill is durable for everyday use as a table lamp. The shade, printed in spiral vase mode, is thinner by design -- it's not structural, just a light diffuser. Treat it the way you'd treat any decorative object on a desk or nightstand.

Troubleshooting

Why is the shade solid with infill in my slicer?

The lamp shade is designed to be printed with “Spiral vase” enabled. The name may vary in your slicer. Cura users see Slicing in Cura (v5.0+).

Slicing in Cura (v5.0+)

Cura v5.0 and above changed how "Spiralize Outer Contour" works. By default, Cura closes all holes automatically unless they are the same height as the bottom thickness.

Correct order of operations:

1. Enable "Spiralize Outer Contour" first.

2. Then disable "Remove All Holes." (Enabling Spiralize first matters -- it resets related settings, so doing it second would re-enable Remove All Holes.)

If you still see an error, update the bottom thickness value to 0.8mm. Bottom thickness is the combined total of: Bottom Layers + Bottom Thickness + Initial Bottom Layers.

This solution follows Cura's GitHub — issue #13939 and other solutions may exist.

Questions?

Contact me or leave a comment where you downloaded the model files, such as Printables. If you print the Dollop Lamp, tag @jonmaymakes on Instagram.

For more on the materials used in my lamp designs, see the materials page. If you'd rather buy a finished lamp, check out the Dollop Lamp.